Festas do Divino Espírito Santos

It was fortunate that our visit coincided with the Festa of the Divino Espirito Santos, a religious event attributed to Saint Isabel back in late 1200 early 1300 who reputedly turned roses into bread for the poor. This event takes place every year in Carregueiros, there is also a much larger event that includes all of Tomar's villages but that only occurs every four years.

The event is spread over 3 days, the inauguration of the "judge" on Friday night followed by a  BBQ lunch for who ever wants it and a "baile" - dance in the evening. The religious part is on the Sunday morning when a procession goes to the local church of São Miguel for mass. It's only a kilometre distant but the "maidens" of the village have to carry the "Coroa" on their head. It doesn't sound too onerous until you find out that the Coroa is between one to one and a half metres tall and can weigh up to 30 kilos.

The girls have a male partner to assist if needed. I saw one girl who couldn't manage and needed assistance. I should add that it was around 28/29° C. The procession was headed by two "gaiteros" - pipers and two drummers, followed by an orchestra from Tomar, the village elders and the girls with their heavy and unwieldy loads. The balance of the "Coroas" is made easier by the use of a "sogra", a ring of material that spreads the load on their head and makes the act of balancing easier and less uncomfortable.

Chicken and Carregueiros

Today is Saturday, today is the custom for a group of us men to go to Alburitel for lunch. An establishment that only opens at the weekend and only serves bbq chicken, chips, salad, hot crusty bread and olives.

BBQ chicken

Alburitel

Alburitel

Poppies, Alburitel

Oh, I forgot about the wine served loose in a litre jug. Local wine with no additives that flows so well and they don't charge extra for a second or even third jug. I think we had a second jug: but there were six of us. I drew the short straw as I was elected driver so minimised my intake. We returned home and after chatting everybody dispersed.

By chance I found out that the Festa de Divino  Espirito Santo was taking place in the village. It happens every year 7 weeks after Easter. The festival dates back to the late 1200/early 1300 when Queen Isabel, later made a Saint, turned roses into bread for the poor. It involves the inauguration of a "juiz" - judge from the village elders who presides over certain events in the village.

Back in 1989/1990 we had spent just over a year living in the area and the village of Carregueiros always brings back happy memories. I entered the cafe Santo Amaro and didn't see Benvida who owned the cafe and I wondered if she had moved on but was assured she would be returning soon. I used to spend a lot of time (mainly drinking😞) with her husband and her father who owned the taberna across the road.

Within a split second she recognised me and we hugged each other. We chatted about different people and I asked about Silvina who owned the little village shop and very small cafe that used to host the old men who met in the afternoons for a game of cards. Yes, the shop still operated and she was still alive.

Benvida and Silvina

I walked through the door and she came towards me with a puzzled face before recognising me. She seemed shorter than I remembered but if anything she looked better with smooth skin and a rosy complexion. Given her hard life she looked good for her 73 years. We talked about people who had died and grandchildren before I went to the "Centro Cultural e Recreativo de Carregueiros"  The Cultural and Recreation Centre conjures up visions of post Stalin Russia but it's a focal point for the village.

I had gone to seek out Rafael, who was, and still is, a major influence in the village. It was he who helped form the "Rancho", a folk group within the village and worked hard to improve the centre. I shouldn't single him out as I know a lot of others were involved. Soon I saw Bartolomeo, his brother, Farupa, Lello, José, Christina and so many people who still remembered me. I felt quite humbled.

  

Rafael and Bartolomeu

Christina and Rafael

Cultural and recreational centre

Carregueiros

Silvina's cafe

Functions room at the centre

Test run

This blog was a test run before I go to Brazil. I wanted to make sure that a blog would be feasible and that uploading pictures wouldn't be difficult. I have to say that attempting it on an Android tablet is very awkward. Placing of pictures is difficult and resizing quite hot and miss. So please excuse the poor layout. I am going to buy a small (10/11inch screen) windows laptop that should make the task a lot easier.

Using "blogger" is a lot simpler than Wordpress. Yes Wordpress can accomplish much more but there would be a steep learning curve, I just needed something simple to use. One drawback with blogger is that you have to be online to use it but all my Brazilian accommodation has Wi-Fi.

Tomar, a Jewel

We are now in Tomar, a jewel of a town in central Portugal. I really love it here. Very laid back and lots of old narrow streets and buildings. There is a modern side to the town but that is largely separated by the Rio Nabão that flows through the town.

The previous evening I had met a friend of my brother in law, a another Luis, who travels to England frequently and has quite a few contacts in Brazil. It was good of him to say I could contact him should I have any problems while away.                                                

I went for lunch with my brother in law and some of his friends. It's something that they do everyday using a different restaurant for each day of the week. I chose the "dourada" - Sea bream.  As he had to wait for someone to collect a car I went to town to buy a couple of shirts and a walk around.

I love this town. Old houses and narrow streets, I can switch off away from the hustle and bustle. Lots of little cafes and "tascinhas" offering simple meals at low cost. 5 - 7 euros.

 

Aqueduct at Pegões built around 1600 to supply the convent

Albufeira and ripped off

Albufeira. I don't particularly like Albufeira, Too many people just interested in drinking and very noisy. At times I feel almost ashamed to be English the way some behave and expecting the locals to speak English. it's far too busy and built up for my liking but brother in law's house is a few kilometres away. The weather changed with our arrival and became cloudy with quite à few showers.

There is a sand Park attraction just outside Albufeira só we went along to look. I wasn't expecting much but it was interesting. The theme was music and many singers were featured, Amy Winehouse, The Beatles, Justin Bieber, Shakira. No space to show all the photos here but I have included a couple.

One afternoon we went to Carvoeiro and although it's still a tourist location it it is very much more refined. None of the brashness of Albufeira. The coastline here is quite dramatic with precipitous cliffs and sandy beaches.

Sister in law was not too well the following day so it was just myself and brother in law who went to lunch. He chose a fish restaurant where we had eaten previously and choose the "carapaus" - horse mackerel for 8 euros. I chose the sea bass but they didn't have any so I went for the sea bream.Both at 8 euros on the menu but again they didn't have it.

I was led to a cabinet and shown a huge fish, far too large and chose something smaller, about 25 cms long. I found out later it was "Anchova" - blue fish. It was good but when I received the bill I had been charged 24 euros for it. I was quite upset that I hadn't been told the price as the owner knew I was looking around the 8 - 10 euros range. Another lesson learnt, ask and don't assume.


 

Portugal May 2016

It's finally arrived, at least the day before we leave has arrived. Not too sure about a 7.30am flight that involves a 415 am awakening though..

Tomorrow we are going to visit my brother in law and his wife. We are flying to Lisbon and from there will take a 3 hour train journey to the Algarve and their second house just outside of Albufeira.

Why fly to Lisbon you ask. My brother in law lives in Tomar, about 140 kms/90 miles north of Lisbon, but they have another house just outside Albufeira. For our second week we will be going by car to Tomar.  When we return home it is quite easy to catch the train back to Lisbon.

Heathrow. For a flagship airport I continue to be dismayed at security. Just one set of trays for everything: Hand luggage, phones, wallets, jackets, baby bottles. And shoes that can be covered in dog shit. I've complained about this by email and tweet and although they acknowledge me they do nothing to resolve the situation. It would be so easy to have a different coloured set of trays for shoes.

Celeste wanted some water and a magazine so we went in to WHSmiths where she bought the magazine but came out without the water. Back we went and I paid for the water. Later while waiting to board she went to take a sip of water but couldn't find the bottle. She thought I had picked it up and I assumed that she had. Never assume anything.

If it was only the water that was left behind. We take a wallet each with us. One with our Portuguese bank card and all our euros. Our arrival in Lisbon was scheduled for 10.15 but as our train didn't leave until 14.05 it would give us time for a leisurely lunch before catching our train.

It was a good job Celeste checked before we hired a taxi but the wallet with our card and the euros had been left behind. At least I had my MasterCard to obtain some cash even at the exorbitant 0.82 euros to the pound exchange rate.

Fortunately our bank had a branch on the station and within 20 minutes we were issued with a temporary card. An enjoyable lunch followed  and we boarded. It was well worth upgrading to first class  for the 3 hour train journey.